A second chance for Malta's paradise island turned 'hell on Earth'

The tiny Mediterranean paradise of Comino has long been overrun by tourists, many lured by social media to photograph its iconic Blue Lagoon. Now, the island is fighting back.

Sitting in a cafe in Marfa Bay, Malta, Colin Backhouse gazes out at a tiny landmass on the horizon: the 3km-by-5km islet of Comino, a sun-baked slab of rock surrounded by a shimmering sea that shifts from deep blue to bright turquoise. Once a near-empty haven, today it is one of the most contested tourist destinations in the Maltese archipelago.

With more than 51,000 followers on his popular Facebook page, Malta Holiday Experiences, Backhouse dedicates his time to recommending the best spots to explore across the Maltese Islands. But there's one place he refuses to endorse.

"It's wonderful at this time of year," he says, nodding toward the car-free islet located between Malta and Gozo. "But in summer? You couldn't pay me to go near it. It’s hell on Earth."

Luring tens of thousands of visitors annually from across the globe, Comino’s Blue Lagoon is a photographer's dream and one of the Mediterranean's most iconic destinations. The bay's vivid hue, caused by sunlight reflecting off the white limestone seabed, sparkles under the Mediterranean sun, making it a perfect subject for stunning photos.

In the December to February low season, the bay’s waters remain barely disturbed, except for the gentle ripple of a landing gull. The shoreline is silent, the coastline untouched. But summer tells a different story. Shoulder-to-shoulder crowds jostle for space, litter spills from overflowing bins and tangles in trampled rock rose shrubs, while gas-guzzling powerboats blast music and leave behind a trail of environmental damage.

Backhouse remembers a time when Comino felt like a secluded escape. "I first visited in 1980. Back then, you could have the whole place to yourself. Unfortunately, I've seen first-hand the destruction over the decades. I really don't know why people bother anymore."

He's not alone in his sentiment. Frustration over Comino's overtourism has been growing for years, with some disillusioned visitors going as far as to call the day-trip experience from Malta a "scam". Overcrowded boats, limited amenities and worsening environmental degradation have led to mounting pressure on authorities to act.

In response, activists have stepped in. In 2022, a local group called Movimenti Graffiti took matters into their own hands by stripping the island of its deckchairs and sunbeds, protesting what they saw as an exploitation of public space for private profit. Their message was clear: Comino should be protected, not plundered.

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The isle's ascent to a dream destination is an interesting one. Having served as a backdrop in films and series such as The Count of Monte Cristo, Troy and even briefly in Game of Thrones, The Blue Lagoon was already a well-known cinematic gem. But social media caused its popularity to soar. Its surreal iridescent waters began attracting travellers from around the world in search of the perfect photo.

"It's at the top of many visitors' bucket lists when they come to the Maltese islands," says Rebecca Millo, head of commercial operations at KM Malta, the country's national airline. "Many people just want to go straight there."

But change is finally coming. This year, in an effort to curb mass tourism and relieve pressure on the islet, which is a designated Natura 2000 site, Maltese authorities are introducing a daily visitor cap – reducing the number of tour boat day-trippers from 10,000 to 5,000. It's a significant step in the right direction, but for environmental advocates like Mark Sultana, CEO of BirdLife Malta, it's only a partial fix.

"Limiting numbers is a good start," he says. "But we need a public sustainability plan that doesn't just focus on crowd control but also on preserving Comino's fragile ecosystem. We are insisting it should have a ticket control system where only a capped number of tickets can be issued each day."

Comino's struggles are not unique. Across the Mediterranean, governments are tightening regulations to combat overtourism. Venice has introduced entry fees for day-trippers, while Athens has capped daily visitor numbers to the Acropolis. These shifts signal a broader push towards more sustainable travel.

Seasoned Malta tour guide Joanne Gatt hears a recurring complaint from tourists: visiting the tiny isle isn't the experience they signed up for. "They go to Comino expecting paradise and leave disappointed," she says. "Overcrowded, chaotic. Hopefully the cap on visitors will make a real difference."

With the new regulations in place, the hope is that Comino can regain some of its lost charm, offering a more enjoyable experience while safeguarding its ecosystem. But some feel the damage is already done. "With so many people wearing it down year after year, I just hope there's something left for future generations to enjoy," Gatt reflects.

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